With an overnight forecast for the freezing level to rise to 1800m we were genuinely pleased to wake up this morning to a temperature of 5 oC at sea level. We headed back up into Glencoe and up into Coire nan Lochan. Despite a warm walk in there was still plenty of ice hanging on particularly on the path. Our aim was the classic Dorsal Arete to introduce Andy & Clare to grade II ground. We had the route to ourselves although an early rising team had already made an ascent. The rocks were well iced and we had to do plenty of digging to find the gear but we made good ascent descending by the north ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan. Today I was working for Adventure Peaks.
The freezing level was around the level of the coire floor at 750m and just below the cloud base. This cloud was building a good amount of rime ice on the crag from about mid height. The snow pack has gone through a couple of freeze thaw cycles and although still soft was well frozen and stable. The majority of the loose blocks on Dorsal Arete were well iced into position and there's a good track up the ridge. There were teams on Scabbard Chimney, Broad Gully and NC Gully plus many others judging by the voices in the gloom. NC Gully looked like a bit of a swim fest.
