Everest on Discovery

 

Geordie arriving at Camp 2 (7800m)

Tonight the Discovery Channel is showing 'The Ultimate Climb' which follows Geordie Stewart's successful attempt to climb the 7 Summits culminating on Everest with me in 2011. There's a few trailers on the Discovery web site. Starring roles for Greg and Jaysen as well.

  

Geordie reaching 7500m on our final acclimatisation

Friday night film - Ueli Steck

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 3

Everest 2012 Season

Sunset on the north side of Everest

This time last year I was gearing up for my own Everest expedition. I'm not back on the mountain this year but there's plenty of activity...

My Everest co-leader Chris Szymiec is heading back up leading for Adventure Peaks. Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton who I've had the pleasure of climbing and training with is on the south and keeping a detailed blog.

Over in Nepal Adele Pennington is heading for Lhotse with Jagged Globe as the next stage of her 14 x 8000m peak challenge.

Colin Wallace has a great website following the British attempts and history at Everest 1953.

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 2

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 1

Friday night film - Geordie on Discovery

Scottish Winter Courses

With the first significant snowfalls reported in Scotland we're gearing up for the winter season. I'll be out and about from the 2nd January to the end of March for winter skills, mountaineering, winter climbing and expedition training. Please have a look at www.mountain-zac.co.uk if you are interested in any instruction or guiding this winter. I'll also be keeping my usual blog updated with reports of conditions and recent ascents. Please enjoy the images from the last couple of incredible seasons and I'll see you on the hill.

Aclimatisation lectures

Oxygen training on Cho Oyu

Today I've been lecturing on the demands of climbing at altitude at the University of Cumbria. As part of their Human Performance module the Outdoor Studies students are spending a few weeks looking at operating in extreme environments. Plenty of interest and there's certainly a few folk who'll be heading high for their next trip.

Blue Ice Choucas Harness Review

Blue Ice Choucas Harness

I received a Blue Ice Choucas Harness just a few days before I was due to fly out to Kathmandu to lead an expedition on the North Ridge of Everest. At 170grams this harness is spookily light but the Dyneema webbing is incredibly strong and having had a quick play with it I felt able to leave my old heavyweight Bod at home (495gr)

In action it was very similar to the Bod with a number of advantages, the obvious one being the weight or lack of. There was plenty of adjustability in the medium/large size which fitted comfortably over my down suit but also clinched down tight over a pair of soft shell trousers lower on the mountain.

One great feature is the red belay loop which makes it very obvious even when peering down through goggles and an oxygen mask past a bulky down suit. I now extend my abseil device on a cows tail to remove the potential for error but if you chose to clip into your belay loop then this feature is a life saver.

The buckle was very easy to use even with big gloves on and it never froze, a problem I’ve experienced several times with other harnesses. Toilet stops at altitude are an interesting challenge usually occurring at the most inconvenient times but the spacing of the rear elastics meant that, without being too graphic, nothing restricted access and you were able to stay clipped in, an important safety consideration. Tried and tested at 8700m!

If you’re competent on Scottish style mixed ground then there’s not many opportunities to abseil on the North Ridge but on the couple of occasions I did the harness was surprisingly comfortable providing plenty of support to the legs. Some lightweight harnesses can ride up and restrict your breathing but in this case I think I can blame it on the altitude!

For me this is unarguably the best harness I’ve used for climbing at altitude. Like all Dyneema products it would be vulnerable to friction but after two months use of Everest it still looks as good as new. It would be ideal for many commercial trips such as Cho Oyu, Island Peak, Muztag Ata, Denali, Vinson etc but you would probably need a slightly more supportive harness for technical peaks such as Ama Dablam. It would also work great for easy alpine routes and ski mountaineering where weight is key. Overall a superb harness and one which I'll be wearing for scrambling, ski touring and general mountaineering in the next few months.

The Blue Ice range is currently stocked at Lakes Climber in Ambleside

The Choucas in action on the North Col of Everest

Everest Acclimatisation Photo Gallery

Prayer wheels

The Khumba Valley in the spring

The infamous Namche bridge high above the Dubh Kosi

The first view of Everest from Namche hill

Prayer wheels at Pangboche Gompa

Guardian at Tengboche Monastery

Ama Dablam

The Everest Memorial at Pheriche

Trailside Mani Stones

Friday night film - Tim Mosedale's Everest Adventure

An excellent series of videos covering Tim Mosedale's Everest (South Col) expedition in 2011 which put 4 clients on the summit. He's back next year as well www.thebige2012.co.uk

Stob Coire Nan Lochan

Climbing on to the north east ridge of Stob Coire Nan Lochan

Well rimed rock just below the summit

Making the move on the final scramble to the summit

Plenty of snow on the coire floor

Buchaille Etive Beag

An original Teradactyl produced by one of my clients!

Enjoying the views on the summit ridge!

Quick blast up Dorsal Arete

Andrew enjoying traditional Scottish conditions

Today was the final day of my week with Andrew & Heather as part of their preparations for the Adventure Peaks Everest expedition in a few weeks time. With a plane to catch we were under a strict timetable so opted for a quick slog up to Stob Coire Nan Lochan and an ascent of Dorsal Arete (II). This is deservedly a very popular route and there were a number of teams heading that way. However with a bit of devious route finding in the clag we were able to get to the front of the queue and make a quick ascent in four pitches. The fin provided plenty of entertainment and provided a fitting climax to an excellent week despite the weather.
The approach slopes were heavily laden with wet snow but everything seemed pretty stable and the coire was a busy place. There were a number of international parties including teams on Central Grooves (VII 7) and Tilt (VI 7). We opted not to descend Broad Gully which contained plenty of spooky snow although a team had waded up while we were on Dorsal Arete.

Heather in action on a very snowy Dorsal Arete

A graceful exit at the top of the fin!

The safe option in these conditions

Andrew topping out on the fin

Castle Ridge

Castle Ridge (III) following the ridge rightwards

This week I'm working with Andrew and Heather to help prepare them for the Adventure Peaks Everest expedition in April. Castle Ridge provided the perfect route to perfect their crampon technique on mixed terrain with a large dose of exposure. We walked in to the Ben in the sunshine while Fort William was still hidden below the cloud inversion. There were teams on Orion Direct, Galactic Hitchhiker, Tower Ridge, Green Gully, Thompson's Route, Ledge Route and Waterfall Gully. There was also plenty of evidence of avalanche activity with a number of crown walls around the Castle gullies. The ridge was in good condition although the upper crux was a little dry and easier without axes. We descended directly to Half Way Lochan on good snow and were back at the hotel in enough time to practice climbing ladders in crampons and mitts, an interesting exercise but which removed some of the fear of the unknown regarding the Second Step on Everest's north east ridge.

Unfortunately we lost an axe today during the descent so if anyone does find a DMM Fly above Half Way Lochan please get in touch and we'll see what we can do...

Andrew on the first crux groove

Heather enjoying some good ice

Perfect conditions for one of the classic ridges

The second exposed crux high on the ridge

Topping out in the sunshine

The descent to Half Way Lochan

On the descent minus an axe!

Practicing for the Second Step on the north east ridge of Everest

Yet another East Ridge!

North Buttress, East Ridge of Stob Ban (II/III)

Due to the high avalanche risk today we opted for another east facing ridge. This time it was the classic North Buttress of Stob Ban in Glen Nevis. A number of other teams had the same idea but the ridge has a number of lines in its lower section which gave some challenging grade III moves. Again the emphasis was on moving efficiently over exposed mixed terrain to prepare Heather and Andrew for the North East ridge of Everest. Visability was poor but the route was in good condition and after a quick ascent we opted to continue to the main summit of Stob Ban before descending by the normal ascent route. The cloud cleared on the walk out giving a great view of our days efforts. Today I was working for Adventure Peaks

Enjoying the technicalities of one of the many rock steps

Andrew increasing the challenge! Good practice for the limited visibility afforded by goggles and an oxygen mask.

Heather taking the quick way down