Gill scrambling on Tryfan!

Chris on Tryfan's Wrinkled Tower

After a night of heavy rain but with an improving forecast Chris and I headed up into the Ogwen Valley to have a look at a couple of scrambles on Tryfan. We splashed up to the west face and made an ascent of the Wrinkled Tower. This is a great grade 3 scramble which bring you out on the north ridge just above the Cannon Stone and deserves to be far more popular. We avoided the crux, a greasy chimney and exposed traverse by straight forward grass slopes to the left. Once on the north ridge we made a quick ascent to the summit in strengthening winds and driving rain, descending by the quick and easy West Gully. Chris then headed off to Plas Y Brenin to make full use of their drying facilities and make his final preparations for his MIA assessment. Through the next five days he'll be assessed on his personal climbing, rescue skills, short roping, teaching and navigation. Good luck to everyone on the assessment and hope the weather improves.

Climbing in the rain

Chris topping out on a wet Brant Direct (HVS 5a)

This weekend was a quick trip down to Snowdonia for some wet rock! Chris has his MIA assessment next week and was keen to get some last minute mileage. With heavy rain forecast we headed into Llanberis Pass to try and grab a quick route. We alternated leads on the classic Brant (VS 4c) before a couple of abseils bought us back to the base of the crag as the rain started. The steep groove of Brant Direct (HVS 5a) looked like it was staying dry so I headed up to have a look. In the end only the last 15' were running with water and we headed off for a brew pleased to have beaten the weather.

Ab-ing off before a brew in Pete's Eats

Gimmer Crag

Gimmer crag dominating the Langdale Valley

The weather was still holding so Chris and I headed up to Gimmer Crag to tick a couple of classics and ensure his MIA preparation was still on track. We started on Gimmer String (E1 5b) which gave a good tussle. A quick abseil and we started on Kipling Groove (HVS, 5a). However after one pitch we found a team having an epic on the crux so we retreated to F Route (VS, 4c)
As usual Gimmer was allowing folk to display their competencies and incompetencies in a grand setting. Amongst the confusion there were teams 'death roping', climbing through each others ropes, getting their ab ropes stuck, letting go while belaying and abseiling without backup! This crag seems to attract these climbers and I'm always surprised that there aren't more incidents with all the dangerous practices we've witnessed up there.

Scafell's Central Buttress

Chris on the crux Great Flake of Central Buttress (E1 5b)

After a week of interesting weather it all came good for the final day out with Chris, who was getting some final practice in for his MIA assessment. With a perfect forecast we opted to make the steep pull up to the Scafell and have a look at the classic Central Buttress (E1 5b). After a very warm walk in the clouds rolled in as we started the first pitch. A few hours later as we topped out it all cleared again giving some stunning views but it did mean a rather chilly and atmospheric climb. Despite the cloud the rock was reasonably dry apart from the final corner. The moves and the situation are outstanding and it deserves it's reputation as one of the best climbs in the Lakes. Best of luck to Chris for his assessment at the beginning of September.

Chris heading away in to the gloom on pitch 5

Topping out an hour later in perfect sunshine!

Scafell Crag with the Great Flake obvious in the center of the left hand buttress.

Short Roping & Scrambling

Chris taking a direct belay on Broad Buttress

Today was Chris's mountain day. On his MIA assessment he'll have to short rope two clients up and down grade 3 scrambling terrain. This is one of the most misunderstood techniques used by mountaineering instructors and guides but offers real security to folk on steeper terrain. Chris's better half Ellen joined us which gave him the opportunity to work with three people on the rope. We headed up to St Sunday Crag, opting for the quieter Broad Buttress to the right of the classic Pinnacle Ridge. This gave us a real mountaineering route with plenty of route finding difficulties. Despite plenty of low cloud the rock was dry and we made good progress through a combination of short roping and short pitching.

'Text book' short roping on the exit slopes

Chris & Ellen topping out on St Sunday Crag.

MIA Navigation

Today's terrible forecast gave an ideal opportunity to look at the navigation aspect of the MIA assessment. Chris and I headed up on to the hills to the east of Pooley Bridge. These featureless hills were the location of the final KIMM (Karrimor International Marathon) in 2005, giving featureless moorland which is ideal for challenging navigation. As we sweated in the sunshine we could reflect on the limitations of weather forecasting! Despite perfect visibility we were able to look at efficient micro navigation, the importance of scale, relocation strategies and teaching navigation to others.

Chris enjoying the sunshine of Arthur's Pike

MIA Client Day

Chris jugging up his fixed line.

Today Chris had the opportunity to practice his coaching and client management in preparation for his MIA assessment. Steve & Hazel were keen to get out on the lead again despite the weather. However with perfect timing we arrived at the crag as it stopped raining and were back in Shepherds Cafe by the time it started again. Quayfoot Buttress (VD) in Borrowdale was very greasy but gave an interesting challenge for everyone before a multi pitch abseil back to our bags. A big thank you to Steve & Hazel for their help in making it a very successful day despite some pretty grotty conditions.

Chris & Hazel on pitch 3 of Quayfoot Buttress (VD)

Chris discussing the frictional properties of various lichens!

Chris & Steve on a multi pitch abseil descent of Quayfoot Buttress

Climbing Waterfalls

Rigging a counter balance abseil to rescue an unconscious casualty

On probably the wettest day of the year so far Chris and I headed out to do some work towards his MIA assessment. In response to the forecast we headed to the north east Lakes to Swindale and Gouther Crag but the break in the rain never materialized. With water pouring down the crag the original plan to bag some routes in was quickly shelved. Instead after a quick ascent of Truss Buttress (VD) we looked at a number of rescues and the fundamental skills required to carry them out quickly and efficiently. Between the squalls we looked at hoisting & lowering plus counter balance and assisted abseils.

The Monkeys Fist rope trick to get your rope down the crag in high winds

Another neat trick to prevent your rope cutting in under the boulder while abseiling

Another hour and we wouldn't be able to get home

MIA Preperation

On the exposed traverse on pitch 1 of Cleopatra (HVS 5a)

Today myself and Guy Steven headed up to Buckstone How above Honister Pass, a new crag for both of us. Guy's got his MIA assessment next week so was keen to get out climbing and short roping. We climbed Sinister Grooves (VS 4c) and the crag classic Cleopatra (HVS 5a) before rain stopped play. We then amused ourselves making an ascent of the extremely wet and loose gully to the left of the crag playing with various aspects of short roping.