Scafell's Central Buttress

Chris on the crux Great Flake of Central Buttress (E1 5b)

After a week of interesting weather it all came good for the final day out with Chris, who was getting some final practice in for his MIA assessment. With a perfect forecast we opted to make the steep pull up to the Scafell and have a look at the classic Central Buttress (E1 5b). After a very warm walk in the clouds rolled in as we started the first pitch. A few hours later as we topped out it all cleared again giving some stunning views but it did mean a rather chilly and atmospheric climb. Despite the cloud the rock was reasonably dry apart from the final corner. The moves and the situation are outstanding and it deserves it's reputation as one of the best climbs in the Lakes. Best of luck to Chris for his assessment at the beginning of September.

Chris heading away in to the gloom on pitch 5

Topping out an hour later in perfect sunshine!

Scafell Crag with the Great Flake obvious in the center of the left hand buttress.

Gogarth - Main Wall

Niv arriving at the 2nd stance on Gogarth (E1 5b)

After a long drive north from Pembroke Niv and I headed into Gogarth, arguably the UK's premier sea cliff. Although the Snowdonia mountains were wreathed in cloud we had light winds and sunshine. We had the Main Wall area to ourselves so quickly jumped on the 2 star Gauntlet (HVS 5a) to warm up before heading down to the crag classic Gogarth (E1 5b). This, the origional route on the cliff, weaves it's way in 5 pitches through some very impressive scenery with the crux reserved for a short steep section on the final pitch.

Gogarth Main Wall

Looking down the stunning 4th pitch of Gogarth (E1 5b)

Niv belayed on Gaunlet (HVS 5a)

Engineers' Slab

Siobhan enjoying the delicate traverse at the start of pitch 2

For the final day of weeks Lakes Classic rock we headed up to Gable Crag aiming for the intimidating Engineers Slab (VS 4c). Once again Siobhan was climbing with Paddy and Patricia was seconding me. Despite getting stuck behind a fairly slow team we made a good ascent breaking the route down into four small pitches. The traditional finish was looking very dirty so we climbed the far more satisfying and exposed slab and arete to the left.
The Ennerdale fell race runners provided a great backdrop as they traversed below us. Well done to the dozen or so runners who had to take avoiding action due to a very large boulder that careared down the screes below Green Gable. We topped out on Great Gable to great views over the Lakeland fells before descending to Honister over Green Gable.
Today I was working for Adventure Peaks

Gable Crag in the morning sunshine. Engineers Slab takes the obvious central line on the square buttress

Patricia 'in' the awkward sentry box belay

Siobhan wedged in the intermediate stance on pitch 2

Patricia enjoying the fine arete finish.

A well deserved cup of coffee at the end of a great week.

Eliminate A

Patricia on pitch 2 of Eliminate A with Paddy & Siobhan on the 1st stance below.

Dow Crag was our choice of venue today and the stunning line of Eliminate A (VS 4c). This impressive line winds it's way up the steep front face of A Buttress with plenty of exposure. Paddy & Siobhan went for the same option making a very sociable day. There were a couple of wet holds but the brisk wind had dried the rest of the crag and the early morning cloud lifted as we arrived at the gearing up point. Patricia took a small swing into space on the first crux traverse but was soon back on the line and enjoying the warm dry rock. There were a couple of other teams about and the crag was looking in good condition.
The Peregrines nesting in Great Gully were very busy, and vocal, bringing a selection of small animals to their brood. We had one stunning flypast, only a few feet out from the rock. Back at the base of the crag we were serenaded by a Ring Ouzel,the first I've seen in the Lakes for a long time.
Today I was working for Adventure Peaks

Patricia on the second belay as Paddy approaches from below

Paddy Cave enjoying the 2nd pitch of Eliminate A

Patricia topping out on Eliminate A

Paddy & Siobhan at the top of the exposed Eliminate A

Patricia, Paddy and Siobhan, all pretty stoked.

The Gimmer Crack

Patricia on the Hard Rock tick - The Crack on Gimmer Crag

Aiming to tick another couple of big routes Patricia and I headed up to Gimmer Crag in Langdale today. Surprisingly we had the crag to ourselves despite a dry and warm day. First on the agenda was The Crack (VS, 4c), which features in Ken Wilson's Hard Rock. There was some seepage in the corner but plenty of dry holds where it mattered and the route was quickly dispatched.
Our second route was going to be Kipling Groove (HVS, 5a) but this was impersonating a waterfall with several wet streaks from below the overhang and out of the groove which gives access to the headwall. We opted for another couple of classics with ascents of D Route (S+) and F Route (VS+). As a fitting finale a Peregrine Falcon was soaring on the crags updraft as we had a late lunch.
Today I was working for Adventure Peaks

Approaching the Bower on the 2nd pitch of the Crack VS, 4c

Gimmer Crag in profile dominated by the corner of The Crack VS, 4c

Gimmer Crag in the evening sun