Time for a new blog...

Winter sunset over Fort William after a big day on the Ben

I started this blog on the 21st December 2009 to share my adventures as a mountain instructor and expedition guide. Nearly 600 posts later and with almost 100,000 views I've managed to upload 1GB worth of photos and writing which has taken me up to my Blogspot limit. So it's now time for a new blog.....

www.mountainzblog.blogspot.co.uk

I'll still keep this blog online as I hope it's a useful resource but please update your browser if you would like to continue to follow me.

Slovak Direct, Denali

Reel Rock Tour

The Reel Rock Tour arrives at Rheged, Penrith tonight.....

 

Dawa Dorjee Sherpa

 

I had the pleasure of summiting Everest in 2011 with Dawa, an amazing climber, Sherpa and human being. Tragically he was killed in the huge avalanche that destroyed Camp 3 on Manaslu on the 24th September. A vastly experienced mountaineer and ridiculously strong Sherpa he had summited Everest six times working with clients from Adventure Peaks. At the time of his death he was working with a French team hoping to make the first ski descent without oxygen. Rest in peace Dawa. The mountains will be a sadder place without you. Our thoughts are with your family and friends.

 

ITACE Team Training Weekend

 Early morning light in Newlands Valley

This weekend the majority of the ITACE team made the long drive north for a training weekend in the Lake District. The wet and windy weather of the last few weeks had given way to blue skies and sunshine - perfect conditions to train for an Antarctic crossing although we suspect Ian was happy with a dose of sunshine as he's heading south with Ran Fiennes in a couple of months for a winter Antarctic traverse as part of the Coldest Journey expedition.

Saturday saw us walking into Borrowdale over the top of Walla Crag. After an 'important meeting' at Shepherds Cafe we spent the afternoon hanging around on some string looking at crevasse rescue and abseiling. The midges eventually drove us away and we found our way up to Millican Dalton's cave in the dark for a bivi. The following morning we shouldered our loads for the climb over Cat Bells and down into Newlands Valley. Our final activity was a descent of Stoneycroft Ghyll which provided plenty of fun and a few bruises!

Ian topping out on Brown Slabs at Shepherds Crag

ITACE 2014 Team Training from Mountain Zac on Vimeo.

Eton College MC Greenland Expedition

  

Greenland bound - again

 

Evening light in Orested Dal

For the second time in as many months I'm heading off to Greenland. This time I'm again working for Tangent Expeditions leading a small team from Eton College on a trekking and climbing trip across Liverpool Land.

Greenland style hot chocolate with added mosquitoes!

Filming with the BBC in Greenland

Greenland's Liverpool Land (photo from Tangent Expeditions)

I'm flying out to Greenland for a few weeks on Friday working for Tangent Expeditions. I'll be supporting a BBC Natural History film crew providing base camp support and rigging for their filming schedule.

Friday night film - Everest Helicopter

One year ago today...

 

 Above the second step on the North Ridge of Everest

 

  Top of the world!

 

Good memories


...and the view on Skye today.

Friday night film - Everest

Friday night film - Everest

Everest on Discovery

 

Geordie arriving at Camp 2 (7800m)

Tonight the Discovery Channel is showing 'The Ultimate Climb' which follows Geordie Stewart's successful attempt to climb the 7 Summits culminating on Everest with me in 2011. There's a few trailers on the Discovery web site. Starring roles for Greg and Jaysen as well.

  

Geordie reaching 7500m on our final acclimatisation

Imperial Trans Antarctic Centenary Expedition

Hauling pulks in Antarctica

Big plans for 2014. After a wet weekend dragging tyres on Dartmoor. I've been selected for a place on the Imperial Trans Antarctic Centenary Expedition 2014.  An ambitious expedition to attempt a crossing of Antarctica via Shackleton's proposed 1914 route.

From the expedition website;
When it comes to celebrating the human spirit, 2014 is going to be a special year. August 2014 will mark exactly 100 years since Sir Ernest Shackleton KCVO and his extraordinary team set out on one of the biggest and most ambitious polar journeys ever attempted.In 1914, as war clouds gathered over Europe, Shackleton was laying plans for an epic expedition; the first ever trek across the Antarctic continent, travelling 1800 miles from sea to sea. He intended to sail through the uncharted waters of the Weddell Sea to Vahsel Bay before trekking by foot towards the geographic South Pole. From there his team would proceed towards the Ross Sea, destined for a rendezvous with their ship and victory.Unfortunately disaster struck and Shackleton’s ship was crushed by sea ice, leaving his team stranded in the freezing wilderness.  By saving the lives of all 28 of his men, Shackleton’s leadership and survival skills have become the stuff of legend, but his intended course across the Antarctic continent remains uncompleted. Until now.

With the patronage of Shackleton’s granddaughter the Honourable Alexandra Shackleton behind us, in 2014 we plan to tread in the great explorer’s intended footsteps, realising his polar ambition and capturing his spirit of adventure for the 21st century. It will be the first time Shackleton’s route will have been attempted– honouring and celebrating just what it takes to push the limits of human possibility. 

 Lots of training, preperation and fundraising in store for the next couple of years. Please have a look at the expedition website www.south2014.com. and support us in any way you can.

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 3

Everest 2012 Season

Sunset on the north side of Everest

This time last year I was gearing up for my own Everest expedition. I'm not back on the mountain this year but there's plenty of activity...

My Everest co-leader Chris Szymiec is heading back up leading for Adventure Peaks. Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton who I've had the pleasure of climbing and training with is on the south and keeping a detailed blog.

Over in Nepal Adele Pennington is heading for Lhotse with Jagged Globe as the next stage of her 14 x 8000m peak challenge.

Colin Wallace has a great website following the British attempts and history at Everest 1953.

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 2

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 1

Expedition Medicine

Using a red smoke flare (photo from ExMed)

Today I've been working on Expedition Medicine's Lake District course for expedition doctors and medics from across the globe. After a full morning in the class room the group were eager to get out in to the sunshine and look at some basic ropework, casevac options and navigation. We finished with plenty of discussion on opportunities for work and some case studies just as the rain set in.

Winching a casualty (photo from ExMed)

Friday night film - Geordie on Discovery