Great day in Comb Gully

More wind on Morwind

Late climbing course availability...

Smith's Route (V 5) on Ben Nevis

Due to a late cancellation I now have one space on a Scottish winter climbing course for all or part of 28th Jan - 1st Feb. An opportunity to follow climbs up to grade V or to improve your own leading at grades III - V. We hope to follow the conditions so could be climbing on the Ben, Creag Meagaidh or in the Cairngorms.

I also have space on a weeks guided climbing, (Gr III-V) on the 5th - 9th March based on the West Coast. Please get in touch if you'd like more details - info@mountain-zac.co.uk

Friday night film - Meru's Fin

Friday night film - Sport v Trad

Dorsalled!!!

Overhanging Bastion

Hazel & Steve on Gangway Climb - a mini Overhanging Bastion!

This week I've been working with Hazel and Steve developing their confidence and techniques to enable them to push their grades. While Steve was building back up to a previous level it was all new fro Hazel so what better way to finish the week on the uber classic Overhanging Bastion (VS 5a) back on Castle Rock. This climb follows a natural ramp line through some very steep and exposed terrain up the highest part of the crag. After warming up on Gangway Climb (VD) and Via Media (S) we headed over to the imposing North crag. Steve made his best lead of the week linking the first 2 pitches with very little input from me. Due to the overhanging and traversing nature of the 3rd pitch some rope trickery was in order to get myself in place on a fixed line to offer support and help if required. However Hazel made a very controlled climb of her hardest lead to date making short work of the bold step off the pinnacle. This week I was working for Adventure Peaks.

Good stance management on Via Media (S)

Steve on the sharp end on Via Media (S)

Hazel on the gangway of Overhanging Bastion (VS 5a)

Enjoying the challenge

Steve following the gangway of Overhanging Bastion

Stepping into space where the gangway narrows

Shepherds Crag

Hazel in the cave on Donkey's Ears (S)

In an effort to keep stretching Hazel and Steve we opted for Shepherds Crag in Borrowdale. In a similar vien to yesterday they built up slowly through the grades (Donkeys Ears S & Chamonix HS) until they made a very smooth ascent of the tricky Adam (VS 5a) with a couple of preplaced runners. Today I was working for Adventure Peaks

Hazel enjoying the hand traverse out from under the Donkey's Ears

Hazel on the crux 2nd pitch of Adam (VS 5a)

Concentrating hard to make the 5a moves

Watching Steve on the 2nd pitch from the comfort of the tree on Adam!

Steve enjoying the security of the tree niche on Adam (VS 5a)

Pushing the grade at Black Crag

Steve pulling hard on Glass Slipper E2 5b

After our efforts yesterday Hazel, Steve and I made the short walk up to Black Crag from the top of Wrynose Pass. The focus of today was on pushing their grade and working on their climbing technique. Hazel began with a very smooth lead of Jolly Corner (D) closely followed by Steve on the arete of Sharp as Glass (S). We then dropped a rope down the classic Glass Slipper and they both made very controlled onsights of this thin E2 5b.

Hazel enjoying Glass Slipper E2 5b

With everything going well we opted to put Hazel on the sharp end on the steep Slipshod (HVS 5a). She made good progress despite a puddle in the triangular niche before gaining a reasonable rest at the loose block. The crux groove proved a bit more problematical and she took a couple of rests before powering to the top of the route. For folk wishing to gain experience of pushing their grade in a safe environment, having an instructor alongside you on a rope offering moral support and an extra runner can really allow you to push the envelope. Hazel put in a really determined effort and now has a real feel for what leading an HVS feels like.
Today I was working for Adventure Peaks.

Gillercombe Buttress

Steve & Hazel on pitch 3 of Gillercombe Buttress

Today Hazel, Steve and I headed up to Gillecombe Buttress for the classic rock tick of the same name. This severe is very worthwhile with some exciting moves inter spaced by easy scrambling. However when we'd traversed in from Honister Pass we found a team of four enjoying the first pitch. On noting that a couple of them were on their first climb in 20 years (Whillians harness, EB's etc) we opted to climb a lovely route just to the right.

Hard at work in the 'office'

Gillercombe Bastion offers 2 pitches on good rock up a slanting ramp line at MVS. For both Hazel and Steve this was as hard as they'd climbed this year but they both made excellent leads of their pitches with some definite improvements from yesterday. We abseiled back to the bags and made a late start on Gillecombe Buttress. They each led a couple of pitches before I ran the rope out to the top so they could relax and enjoy the climbing on the last two pitches.
Today I was working for Adventure Peaks

Evening light in Gillercombe

Castle Rock

This week I'm working with Steve & Hazel. They've plenty of experience on the easier grades but have reached a bit of plateau with their climbing. The plan for the week was to get out and climb some classic multi pitch routes, push the grade, polish their technique and increase their confidence. With the Lakes drying out from the heavy rain on Sunday we opted to head for Castle Rock to work through the techniques of multi pitch climbing.
Hazel was straight on the sharp end on Yew Tree Climb (VD) on the friendly South Crag. The climbing was well within their limit with both demonstrating an excellent foundation of skills on which to build. After lunch they made a secure ascent of Via Media (S) before we looked at various ways of escaping the system in case of emergency.
Today I was working for Adventure Peaks.

Bamford Edge

Topping out on the classic Gunpowder Crack VS 5b

For the final day of their rock climbing practical the University of Cumbria outdoor students decided to head up to the secluded Bamford Edge, a sensible decision on a hot and sunny weekend. The day continued in the same vein as the previous two with some outstanding leads showing a huge progression from Thursday. There were ascents of Neb Buttress (HVS, 5a), Gunpowder Crack (VS, 5b), Green Parrot (VS, 5b) and Slopy Side (HVS, 5b) amongst others.

Another view of Gunpowder Crack VS 5b

Burbage North

Today saw us at Burbage North aiming to develop the students leading and rigging skills. A large variety of routes were climbed from technical slabs to classic cracks ranging from V Diff to E1 with the majority of the group pushing their grade. There was some cloud around but conditions were still pretty much perfect and with motivation levels high we climbed solidly from 9am - 6pm. Today I was working with the University of Cumbria.

Mark on the perfect jams of Still Orange S 4a

Abi running it out on Black Slab VS 4b

Stanage Edge

For the next few days I'm working with outdoor students from the University of Cumbria on their rock climbing practicals. We headed south to a sunny peak district to introduce them to the delights of gritstone. Conditions were ideal and the students got plenty of mileage on the rock. A significant number had never led before but were soon on the sharp end and progressing quickly. Today was spent at the Popular End of Stanage.

Mark on the classic Flying Buttress HVD 4a

Rob putting the effort in on Eliminator HVS 5b