Dawa Dorjee Sherpa

 

I had the pleasure of summiting Everest in 2011 with Dawa, an amazing climber, Sherpa and human being. Tragically he was killed in the huge avalanche that destroyed Camp 3 on Manaslu on the 24th September. A vastly experienced mountaineer and ridiculously strong Sherpa he had summited Everest six times working with clients from Adventure Peaks. At the time of his death he was working with a French team hoping to make the first ski descent without oxygen. Rest in peace Dawa. The mountains will be a sadder place without you. Our thoughts are with your family and friends.

 

Friday night film - Everest Helicopter

One year ago today...

 

 Above the second step on the North Ridge of Everest

 

  Top of the world!

 

Good memories


...and the view on Skye today.

Friday night film - Everest

Friday night film - Everest

Everest on Discovery

 

Geordie arriving at Camp 2 (7800m)

Tonight the Discovery Channel is showing 'The Ultimate Climb' which follows Geordie Stewart's successful attempt to climb the 7 Summits culminating on Everest with me in 2011. There's a few trailers on the Discovery web site. Starring roles for Greg and Jaysen as well.

  

Geordie reaching 7500m on our final acclimatisation

MountainZ Photography

Topping out on Green Gable (BMC Summit magazine)

I've been working hard at my photography over the last few years, often in some pretty amazing environments and the results have been slowly improving. In the last year my images have been used by the Discovery Channel, the British Mountaineering Council, local press and Adventure Peaks. There's plenty more of my work on Flickr.

Geordie Stewart reaching Camp 2 on Everest (Discovery Channel marketing)

Above the Second Step on the North Ridge of Everest (Adventure Peaks & cover photo for The Guards Magazine - Winter 2011)

 

 Summit of Mount Everest (Westmoreland Gazette & Andover Advertiser)

  Descending from Camp 1 on Mt Vinson, Antarctica (Adventure Peaks)

The last few meters to the summit of Mt Vinson (Adventure Peaks)

 

 Summit of Mt Vinson, Antarctica (Adventure Peaks)

 

Walking in to Aconcagua (Adventure Peaks)

Summit of Cho Oyu 8201m (Adventure Peaks)

 

 Team photo on the summit of Cho Oyu (Adventure Peaks)

Descending from the summit of Stok Kangri (Adventure Peaks)

Fitting crampons on a winter skills course (BMC Summit magazine)

Practicing ice axe arrest (BMC Summit magazine)

Abseiling off Kern Knotts (Adventure Peaks)

Climbing Innominate Crack, Kern Knotts (Adventure Peaks)

Bucket seat belay in Scotland (Adventure Peaks)

Climbing Smith's Route, Ben Nevis (Adventure Peaks)

 

 Glacier training below Khan Tengri, Kyrgyzstan (Adventure Peaks)

Climbing Pk Chapeyev, Kyrgyzstan (Adventure Peaks)

Summit of Pk Chapeyev with Khan Tengri in the background (Adventure Peaks)

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 3

Everest 2012 Season

Sunset on the north side of Everest

This time last year I was gearing up for my own Everest expedition. I'm not back on the mountain this year but there's plenty of activity...

My Everest co-leader Chris Szymiec is heading back up leading for Adventure Peaks. Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton who I've had the pleasure of climbing and training with is on the south and keeping a detailed blog.

Over in Nepal Adele Pennington is heading for Lhotse with Jagged Globe as the next stage of her 14 x 8000m peak challenge.

Colin Wallace has a great website following the British attempts and history at Everest 1953.

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 2

Friday night film - Himalaya Speed Pt 1

Friday night film - Geordie on Discovery

Friday night film - Skiing Everest

Aclimatisation lectures

Oxygen training on Cho Oyu

Today I've been lecturing on the demands of climbing at altitude at the University of Cumbria. As part of their Human Performance module the Outdoor Studies students are spending a few weeks looking at operating in extreme environments. Plenty of interest and there's certainly a few folk who'll be heading high for their next trip.

Blue Ice Choucas Harness Review

Blue Ice Choucas Harness

I received a Blue Ice Choucas Harness just a few days before I was due to fly out to Kathmandu to lead an expedition on the North Ridge of Everest. At 170grams this harness is spookily light but the Dyneema webbing is incredibly strong and having had a quick play with it I felt able to leave my old heavyweight Bod at home (495gr)

In action it was very similar to the Bod with a number of advantages, the obvious one being the weight or lack of. There was plenty of adjustability in the medium/large size which fitted comfortably over my down suit but also clinched down tight over a pair of soft shell trousers lower on the mountain.

One great feature is the red belay loop which makes it very obvious even when peering down through goggles and an oxygen mask past a bulky down suit. I now extend my abseil device on a cows tail to remove the potential for error but if you chose to clip into your belay loop then this feature is a life saver.

The buckle was very easy to use even with big gloves on and it never froze, a problem I’ve experienced several times with other harnesses. Toilet stops at altitude are an interesting challenge usually occurring at the most inconvenient times but the spacing of the rear elastics meant that, without being too graphic, nothing restricted access and you were able to stay clipped in, an important safety consideration. Tried and tested at 8700m!

If you’re competent on Scottish style mixed ground then there’s not many opportunities to abseil on the North Ridge but on the couple of occasions I did the harness was surprisingly comfortable providing plenty of support to the legs. Some lightweight harnesses can ride up and restrict your breathing but in this case I think I can blame it on the altitude!

For me this is unarguably the best harness I’ve used for climbing at altitude. Like all Dyneema products it would be vulnerable to friction but after two months use of Everest it still looks as good as new. It would be ideal for many commercial trips such as Cho Oyu, Island Peak, Muztag Ata, Denali, Vinson etc but you would probably need a slightly more supportive harness for technical peaks such as Ama Dablam. It would also work great for easy alpine routes and ski mountaineering where weight is key. Overall a superb harness and one which I'll be wearing for scrambling, ski touring and general mountaineering in the next few months.

The Blue Ice range is currently stocked at Lakes Climber in Ambleside

The Choucas in action on the North Col of Everest

Everest Summit Attempt

Climbing to Camp 3 on oxygen

The team spread out along the traverse to Camp 3 above 8000m

Everest's north east ridge with the prominent Second Step

Stunning sunset from the highest camp in the world at 8300m

Sucking on oxygen at Camp 3 prior to our summit attempt

10:30pm on the 25th May and getting ready to depart on our summit attempt

Sunrise from halfway up the Second Step at 8600m

The summit pyramid from the top of the Second Step

The mixed ground leading to the Third Step

Climbing above the clouds at 8700m

The final slopes to the summit of Mt Everest

The 8848m summit of Mt Everest, 9.35am on the 26th May 2011

Prayer flags on the summit of Mt Everest with Makalu in the background

Self portrait on the summit of Mt Everest

Back safely at Camp 3

Camp 3 perched on a steep & icy slope

Descending to Camp 2 in high winds

Descending in to the clouds towards the North Col

Cho Oyu above the clouds 17km away

A double sun halo from ABC

A final view of Everest from Base Camp