Wednesday, 10 November 2010

Ama Dablam Summit Attempt

Climbing the Yellow Tower in worsening conditions with Camp 1 behind

Ang climbing the Yellow Tower in full Scottish conditions!

The final climb to Camp 2 with the snow pelting down

Allan & David climbing the Yellow Tower
The crux of the Yellow Tower - pick a rope and jug!

Looking down the Yellow Tower

Base Camp after the storm

Morning view after our aborted summit attempt

Our Sherpa's Mingma & Lhakpa at Camp 2 after the storm

The Khumba Valley after the unseasonable snow storm

The route from Camp 2 up the Grey Tower

My tent at Camp 2 after the storm.

David at Camp 2

Camp 2 perched on the ridge

Our Sirdar, Lhakpa, at Camp 2.

Beginning the descent of the ridge.

David leaving Camp 2

Allan abseiling off the Yellow Tower

Crossing verglassed slabs and the site of Carrie's accident

Allan crossing the final photogenic slabs before Camp 1

Allan descending the ridge to Camp 1

Descending towards Meadow Camp

Following Puna into the cloud

Descending into the cloud at Point 5001

Ama Dablam Acclimatisation

Base camp below Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam with the SW Ridge on the left hand skyline

Our Puja or Buddhist mountain blessing

My radio call sign was 'Yak!'

Evening light from Meadow Camp at 5000m

Brocken spectra on our first visit to Camp 1 (5800m)

The view along the SW Ridge from Camp 1

The SW Ridge of Ama Dablam

Crossing slabs on the way to Camp 2.

Carrie topping out on the Yellow Tower, the crux of the route.

The slabs on the way down from Camp 2

Back at Ama Dablam base camp.

Afternoon cloud at base camp.

Our second visit to Camp 1

Climbing towards the Yellow Tower on our 2nd acclimatisation trip.

Ouch - broken arm at 5950m!

All packaged up ready to start the tricky descent.

Helicopter evacuation from base camp the following morning.

Ama Dablam from near the village of Pheriche

The Everest memorial at Pheriche

Ama Dablam from Pangboche

Evening light on the approach to Ama Dablam base camp.

Ama Dablam sunset

Journey to Ama Dablam

Buddhist rock carving on the walk in to base camp

Porter carrying 100kg+ at Lukla

Passing Mani stones to your right

First view of Thamseku

One of the many bridges over the Dubh Kosi.

First view of Everest from Namche hill.

Drying fuel for the Tea House stove!

The view from Tengboche

Mani stones & prayer wheels on the trail

Inside the Gompa at Khujung

Khujung Gompa

Khujung Gompa

Prayer wheels

Porter earning his money!

First view of Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam dominating the view on the main Everest trail.

Artist at work

The birch forest below Tengboche

Descending to the river below Tengboche.

Ama Dablam framed by prayer flags from Pangboche

Monday, 8 November 2010

Bolts on Ama Dablam

Bolt below the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam

The Yellow Tower on the classic SW Ridge of Ama Dablam now sports 7 shiny new bolts courtesy of Adventure Consultants. This is the crux of the 'normal' route and is usually fixed using a selection of threads, pegs and snow stakes. The bolts were placed around the 30th October by the AC Sherpa team. There are also a number of bolts on the large boulders above the Ama Dablam Tea House, 10 minutes from the normal base camp, placed to enable their group to practice fixed line techniques.
They undoubtedly make rigging the fixed lines safer for the Sherpa teams who carry out this work and are far less obtrusive than the current mess of rope. However there was no discussion with any of the other commercial or non commercial teams on the mountain or the wider mountaineering community in general. The AC website doesn't mention the bolting in its daily dispatches.
In general they have been well placed and increase the level of safety but one has been positioned in a large detached block while the main anchor at the top of the tower is now two bolts placed approximately 10cm apart. There is also evidence of a couple of bodged placements.
Bolts were placed on the South Col route of Everest a few years ago which caused a furor but rightly or wrongly they now seem to be gaining in acceptance on Himalayan trade routes which are regularly commercially guided. The Sherpas whose country we are visiting and who we ask to rig the fixed lines seem very keen on this development which is far less intrusive than the mess of ropes and rubbish that is usually in place.

The first bolt on the exposed traverse to the Yellow Tower

Bolt and peg anchors below the Yellow Tower.

The main anchor above the Yellow Tower with the bolts placed to close together.

Friday, 8 October 2010

Ama Dablam expedition

Ama Dablam from Dingboche on the Everest trail

I'm currently flying out to Kathmandu to lead the Adventure Peaks 2010 Ama Dablam expedition. This stunning mountain is situated just south of Everest and offers one of the most technical climbs that is regularly commercially led. You can follow our progress on the Adventure Peaks news pages and I'll have a full report here on my return.